Your first question when stove shopping should be,
"How do I plan to use it?" For long-term economy, heat output and
year-round versatility, white gas and multifuel stoves are the most popular, but
simmering can be tricky with some models.
For flame control, low initial cost, and sheer three-season
convenience, butane/propane cartridge stoves are the winners. Trouble is,
fuel-canister costs add up, you have to pack out the empties, and they usually
can't be recycled. denotes seasonal suitability. Here's what the letter codes
mean.
For simplicity, silence, and environmental correctness, an
alcohol stove is the best choice. The drawbacks? Fuel can be expensive, hard to
find, and packs only a fraction of gasoline's cooking power for comparable
weight.
If you're planning extensive Third World travels, kerosene
or multifuel stoves are your only reasonable option. And if you're planning a
month-long unsupported backpacking trip, a forced-air wood stove designed to
burn twigs will save a lot of fuel weight as long as there will be plenty of
wood to burn where you're going, of course.
Seasonal
Considerations
Each season and activity makes its own demands on your
equipment. This guide is set up to help you match the right stove with the
proper fuel for a reliable combination whatever your activity
Three-Season Stove:
A three-season stove emphasizes convenience and simmering ability over
cold-weather function and performance. The gas-cartridge stove dominates this
category. Pack a TS stove along when you don't have to worry about the mercury
diving way below freezing. If frost decorates your meadow, expect tougher
start-ups and longer boiling times.
Four-Season Stove:
A four-season stove can crank out maximum BTUs year-round and usually burns
happiest at full gallop. It's the tool of choice when you want fast hot drinks
and quick one-pot meals. White-gas or multifuel models are usually
pump-pressurized to maintain full blowtorch mode at frigid temperatures. Most
also require priming to start. This dicey operation improves with practice, but
is still unsafe to do inside your tent. The multifuel model is ideal for
overseas travel where kerosene and auto fuel may be your only options.
High-Altitude Stove:
This featherweight, ultraconvenient stove is designed to operate in the cramped
confines of a bivouac tent or snow
cave. Most are gas-cartridge models with integrated pots and windscreens
designed for hanging from tent ceilings or climbing anchors. This type is most
useful for boiling water and instant meals for one or two half-starved
mountaineers.
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Fuel
Types
Alcohol: The
alcohol stove boasts a small but enthusiastic following. This type has few
moving parts and is dead silent while cooking, a relief from the constant
tinkering and rocket-launch racket of most white-gas or kero stoves. Alcohol's
low volatility makes it safer in confined spaces such as boat cabins and tent
vestibules. It's also a renewable alternative to petroleum-based fuels. The
downside is that denatured alcohol produces about half the heat per equal weight
of gasoline, so boiling times can be long. Fuel can be hard to find outside of a
drugstore or hardware outlet, and the price is usually higher than that of white
gas.
Auto Gas:
Dollar-conscious campers face the enticing prospect of spending $1 for a gallon
of auto unleaded gasoline rather than $4.50
for super-refined white gasoline.
But unless your stove is designed to run specifically on auto unleaded, it will
probably smoke and fume a lot, quickIy leading to sputtery burners and sooty
black cookware. Leaded gas contains even more toxic stove-clogging and
lung-choking additives. If you must bum auto fuel, buy the lowest octane-grade
available, and bum it outdoors.
Butane and
Blended Fuels: The butane-blend cartridge stove is popular for
three-season cooking because this type is far and away the simplest to use.
Mixtures of butane and propane (and straight isobutane) have largely supplanted
pure butane because of the better cold-weather performance. In general,
cartridge stoves do not perform well in subfreezing temperatures at low
altitude, so most winter campers will prefer something with more flame power.
Most of these stoves work above 15,000 feet because the reduced atmospheric
pressure helps the fuel vaporize even in subzero cold. These
fuels come prepackaged in various thin-walled steel canisters, which are more
expensive than white gas or kerosene on a per-meal basis. Besides fuel cost,
another big drawback to this type is the difficulty of recycling empty
canisters. Some cartridges cannot be removed from the stove until empty a
headache for packing.
Kerosene: Kerosene is inexpensive and widely available both domestically and overseas. We recommend the cleaner, more refined l-K heater fuel instead of sooty, additive-laced auto diesel. The downside is that kerosene can be hard to light, smokes liberally on start-up, smells terrible, and takes a long time to evaporate if spilled. Once it's rolling, though, kero puts out excellent heat per fill-up.
Propane: Propane
burns hot and happy in subzero temperatures, but transportation regulations
require that the bottles be thick-walled steel canisters which, unfortunately,
weigh several pounds apiece. That's a big drawback for backpacking, but the
propane stove remains popular with river runners and Scout troops, where the
extra weight can be floated or split up between hikers.
White Gas: This
additive-free gasoline is the best cold-weather performer and typically produces
the shortest boiling times year-round. WG packs more cooking power into a
smaller bottle than any other choice. Though readily available in North America
(Coleman fuel is one example), white gas can be a headache to find overseas.
Virtually all white-gas and auto-gas stoves must be primed, but once up to
speed, white-gas stoves generally bum clean and hot, and over-all fuel costs are
low.
Wood:
Downed limbs are a fuel of choice in fast-growing temperate forests. A
lightweight collapsible sheet-metal stove can warm a roomy wall tent, and a few
wood burners designed for backpacking can rival white-gas heat output if the
fuel is right. A wood-burning pack stove must be tended carefully for best
performance. Dry softwoods work well for starters. Finger-size chunks of
seasoned hardwood bum longer and put out more heat. A wood stove saves fuel
weight for long unsupported trips, but it's an acceptable alternative only in
places where woody growth rates outpace use.
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Design
Features
Boiling Time: We
advise a healthy dose of skepticism when interpreting manufactures boiling times.
Boiling time is dependent on; operator skill; stove cleanliness; fuel
quality; beginning water temperature; ambient temperature; altitude; and
prevailing winds. For a faster boil keep the pot covered and use a wind screen.
Burn Time:
Another manufacturer supplied statistic. It shows how long the stove will burn
at full blast, starting with a full fuel tank.
Brand
Specific Hints; hard won feedback from the field
Each brand has it’s own idiosyncrasies, comforting
strengths, and infuriating weaknesses. Here are a few hints for operating and repairing some common models.
Camping Gaz, EpiGaz,
Olicamp, and other bottled brands. A hanging wind-screen/pot set (Bibler,
Markill Stormy, Scorpion II Cookset, and others) really improves overall
efficiency. Prewarming cartridges by hand or in your sleeping bag helps frosty
morning start-ups. Boost heat output by hand-warming the canister while you heat
water on the stove. After the water heats up a bit, dip the fuel can briefly
into the warm liquid - but never into boiling water. Do not warm fuel canisters
with a match or cigarette lighter. Repair kit: spare stove or a campfire,
otherwise it's cold oatmeal if you have a problem.
MSR XGK and
Whisperlite . These popular stoves have earned a reputation for clogging
that's not entirely their fault. Most clogging comes from the sputtering yellow
flame that lingers after shutoff and coats the burner jet with soot. Blow out
the flame and let the stove fume
away - outside - to let raw fuel cleanse the jet. Also, use clean fuel. Don't
overfill the tank - leave 1 or 2 inches of air space. Keep the leather pump cup
oiled. Repair kit: cleaning needle (taped to fuel bottle), extra burner jet. MSR
cable/jet tool.
Coleman/Peak 1
Multlfuel and Feather models.
More recent Peak 1 models cold-start better than previous incarnations, but can
clog during priming and require replacement of
the entire preheat tube assembly. Carry a spare assembly on a long trek.
New models are jetted to run on auto unleaded gasoline. To reduce start-up
flaring on all models, avoid overfilling the fuel tank.
Coleman Apex.
This new model mimics MSR's remote-fuel-bottle design. Protect the rather
fragile burner unit by packing it in a cook pot. The hose remains connected to
the fuel bottle, so put it away where you won't mind a bit of dribbled fuel.
Always cover the hose end with the provided cap lest pack-pocket cooties flub up
the burner’s superb lighting and simmering capabilities. Avoid filling the
fuel bottle more than two-thirds full.
Optlmus. This
sturdy Swedish stove may not be as ubiquitous as it once was, but it remains as
simple and reliable as ever. Priming paste helps reduce carbon buildup;
alternatively, fill the priming cup with an eyedropper of fuel, which produces
less flaring than dousing the whole burner. Avoid wrapping foil windscreens
closely around the Climber 123 (originally Svea) model; we've overheated two
that way, blowing the safety valve with spectacularly unpleasant results. Repair
kit: wrench or vise-grips, spare jet, extra name-spreader plate.
Zzip Ztove . Feed this solid-fuel stove with dry sticks or charcoal briquettes and it'll keep pace with most gas models. But feed it green twigs and you'll smoke out half the campsite. Remove the draft-fan battery for transport; the primitive switch gets clicked on easily in the pack. The Zzip also serves as a cheery mini campfire for marshmallow roasts. Check backcountry fire regulations - some strictly no-fire zones don't allow the Zzips.
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LIFE ON THE ROAD
WITH STOVE: hot tips on getting along with your cooker
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Pack your stove and fuel carefully in a side pocket,
padded bag, or special stove case away from food and clothing. | |
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Carry cleaning needles taped to your fuel bottle and
keep key spare parts right in the burner sack. Stove maintenance is
generally simple: Learn to recognize problems and to make repairs before
they are necessary. | |
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Test-fire your new stove at home before relying on it
in the field. | |
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Check the fuel for water and sediment before filling a
gas or kerosene stove. Fuel sometimes develops condensation during
extended storage. Use a filter funnel to keep detritus from clogging
your unit. | |
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Use a stove base when cooking on snow, uneven ground,
or tent floors. A plywood scrap, ceramic tile, or old license plate works
well as a base. | |
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Clean your stove immediately if it won't run at full
efficiency before excessive carbon buildup worsens the situation. | |
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Cover pots and use a windscreen for increased
efficiency. A full wraparound windscreen is the most effective, but make
sure it isn't reflecting heat onto the gas tank. | |
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Cook with a blackened pot because it heats faster than
a silvery clean one. A heat exchanger further decreases boiling times and
fuel consumption rates, which become logistically important on long treks. | |
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Opt for a multifuel stove if you're globe-trotting, but
this type typically comes with a hefty price tag, and some models are more
complex than other stove types, creating more potential for failure. | |
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Always carry extra fuel. Even the best stove won't work if you’re out |
Copyright
2001 Northern Arizona University, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED